Thursday, November 29, 2007

One week in paradise

A poem written on the wall off the toilet on Hangdog camp, Paynes Ford:

Hello climbers, welcome to Paynes!
Where it hardy ever rains,
Except when the masses arrives from the city,
Than the whether is generally shitty

So what routes should you climb?
I will tell you through this rhyme,
I’ll give you hints about what to do,
Through this words written on this loo.

The Rawhide roof is steep and long,
It’s many moves out to the lip,
And that is your first clip
If you fall you’ll hit the dirt
And, believe me, this will hurt.
Ed bouldering Rawhide roof (22)

If you want to climb Temples of stone,
Rest assured, you won’t be alone,
There is often a queue, so don’t be late
But the climb is worth the wait

Ingrid on Temples of Stone (18)

Tenuite Wall has Go with the Flow
Layback the stal is the way to go,
Just be careful not to slip,
As you’re doing the second clip
The routes on the wall are a lot of fun
But get there early before the sun

Responsible lounges and Convex Slope
Have dashed many climbers hope,
To do these routes, you have to crank,
But leave some gas in the tank
Else your fingers might go limp,
As you do the final crimp

One of the finest is Globe wall
An excellent place for a fall,
Make sure you have a good belay,
On Dave’s arête or Make my day,
The final move before the top,
Is the place you’re bound to drop

If you want to try your luck,
To see if you can Superconduct,
You will need to effortlessly flow,
Else the crux moves you will blow


Greg on a climb next to Superconductor

If these climbs are much to hard,
Then Little Lost Wall may be your card
The cliff is low and not so steep,
The holds are friendly; big and deep

1080’s a route you ought to try,
Climbing upside down like a fly
Keep on moving, do not stop,
And don’t get psyched out by the drop,
Soon you’ll arrive at the cave,
Take a rest; to the audience wave

Jake resting in the cave on 1080 and the letter G (23)


An excellent cliff is the Wall of Thugs;
Don’t expect to find many jugs
Adrift in a sea of slopes,
Your climbing will be franatic gropes,
You’ll be pumped out of your brain,
Before you finally reach the chain.

If you like climbing on rock that’s steep,
Then head to Pohara and Bo-Peep,
Despite appearances, the rock is sound
Better climbing can hardly be found.

Jake on Why not? (26) on Bo-Peep slab(!!!)


At the end of a long hard day,
No more climbing, you want to play,
To the swimming hole you ought to run,
To go for a swim or lie in the sun,
The perfect way,
To end the day,
Of excellent climbing,
In Golden Bay


Rescuing the dog Chewie on the slack line over one of the swimming holes
Todays gravity on Hangdog camp
Maching fake Mad rock tatoos :)

Group photo: Me, Ingrid (cool norwegian), Jake (annoying american 1), Ed (true kiwi), Greg (Annoying american 2), Kristin (cool norwegian)

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